Everything you need to know about gold jewelry hallmarks

Gold jewelry can be produced from pure gold or gold plated. To easily identify the quantity of metal used, the goldsmith, the manufacturer, the French guarantee office or even the importer, punch the object using a punch.

Why put a hallmark on gold ?

The hallmark is a certificate, a sort of guarantee that your ring contains 9, 14, 18, 22 or 24 carats of gold. This famous carat is in reality a unit of measurement which precisely defines the purity of the metal (not to be confused with the gemological carat which is worth 0.2 grams). For example, it is impossible to make a wedding ring in pure gold without an alloy. Gold is in fact too malleable to harden and create jewelry. The quantity used must still be indicated to the buyer and other traders, hence the hallmark. The professional buyer therefore does not need to carry out any purity tests. He observes the mark and immediately knows the purity of the product. He can then refer to the price of gold and give you a precise estimate.

Where are the hallmarks found ?

The punches are not positioned in the same place depending on the object. You will find the hallmark on:

• A ring: ring or wedding ring, the hallmarks are generally discreet and are located on the interior faces. You can sometimes find them on the exterior faces in an exceptional way;
• Necklaces, bracelets and other chains: the clasp serves as a support for the punch;
• Watches: it is the case which houses the hallmark, inside or outside.

In France, only products weighing more than 3 grams must have a hallmark. The others are exempt.

Please note, if you cannot find a hallmark, this does not mean that your family ring was not made of gold. It is possible that over time the trace of the punch has disappeared. Professionals then resort to the purity test.

All hallmarks are identical ?

Over the centuries, goldsmiths have applied different marks. Today, you find hallmarks on old objects that are no longer used, but which represent the history and past of the ring or necklace. In France, regulations have structured the use of the hallmark. The hallmarking used in mainland France is different from that used in the rest of the world. Only experts can therefore precisely determine the origin, value and purity of a product.

You may have noticed marks on the ingots. They make it possible to identify the founder, but also the purity (often noted 999.9 for pure gold), the serial number and the gross weight. These indications are not hallmarks. The gold ingots  do not need hallmarks since everything is already clearly indicated on the products.

For silver, the hallmarks are different and are governed by other criteria and rules. The same goes for platinum and other metals.

The hallmarking of the gold is a crucial step. The product warranty depends on this and, in the event of importation, customs and other French administrations may block the goods in order to take the time to correctly identify the gold objects. In France, when purchasing gold, the hallmark communicates a lot of information.

The different types of punches

You can find several different types of hallmarks on your jewelry:

• The maker's mark: affixed by the jeweler or goldsmith, it is a mark which indicates the creative craftsman. His initials are inscribed in a diamond;
• The responsibility mark: it is used by importers. Its shape describes an oval;
• The title mark: used by customs, it guarantees the purity and the alloy adopted;
• The square hallmark: it means that the object is gold plated;
• International hallmarks: they strongly resemble those affixed to ingots. You will then observe the inscription of the purity (750.75%) or the carat (“K”, “KT”).

If you have any doubts or questions, do not hesitate to contact the Gold Union experts. They will be able to help you and guide you in all your steps.

Examples of punches

The French punching system plays on shapes, animals and numbers. The following list is not exhaustive, as many hallmarks are in circulation:

• The seahorse: this hallmark guarantees maximum purity. The object is in 24 carat gold;
• The framed eagle head: we find this hallmark on 22-carat gold objects;
• The eagle's head: means 18 carats;
• The scallop: 14 carats;
• Clover: 9 carats.

You can also see owl, rooster, weevil, rhinoceros or even horse head punches. Each of these representations corresponds to a purity. On the other hand, if the metal is aged, has lost its patina or has a silvery appearance, there may be doubt between gold and silver. In this case, the punch can help you. Only three hallmarks circulate regularly for silver:

• The amphora: for new items and certain ingots. The object is made of pure silver;
• Minerva: this is the most widespread and corresponds to a purity of 925 thousandths;
• The Swan: often found on old imported objects.

Gold Union professionals offer guaranteed and certified bars and coins. You can discover our range of investment coins and gold or silver bars by making an appointment now in one of our agencies or by requesting advice via our e-commerce site.