What is gold vermeil ?

Although it bears the name of the golden metal, gold vermeil is not simply gold. Let's see how it is made and what sets it apart from other gold products or gold plating.

The composition of gold vermeil

Gold vermeil is a precious metal that combines solid silver and gold. It is in fact composed of solid silver covered with a layer of fine gold. It is therefore part of the category of precious metals, in the same way as other metals such as platinum for example, even if it is an alloy.

To be able to speak of vermeil gold, it must respect certain characteristics. The regulations are not quite the same depending on the country, but in France, the criteria are as follows¹:

• The base must be solid silver, that is to say with a grade of at least 800/1000 (most often, it is sterling silver, with a grade of 925/1000 );
• The thickness of gold covering the silver must be at least 5 microns;
• The quality of the gold must be at least 18 carats for it to be considered true vermeil gold.

It sometimes happens, however, that we find jewelry called “gold vermeil”, but which is only 14 carats.

The difference between gold vermeil and gold plated

Visually, a novice could confuse gold vermeil jewelry with gold-plated jewelry. However, they are two different things: gold plating consists of applying a very thin layer of gold (well less than 5 microns) to a metal which is not necessarily precious. Most often, it is copper or brass, not solid silver. While this allows you to make gold jewelry at a lower cost, gold plating remains less qualitative and will tend to tarnish over the years, which is not the case for gold vermeil.

It is also necessary to differentiate gold vermeil from Gold Filled. The latter is halfway between gold plated and vermeil, since its manufacture consists of covering brass with a relatively thick layer of gold. The Gold Filled actually contains a weight of gold corresponding to 1/20 of the total weight of the object. This gives it good resistance, but less nobility than wonder gold, while remaining more affordable than solid gold. 

The hallmark to recognize vermeil gold

Like any precious metal, gold vermeil can have a hallmark for identification. A piece of jewelry or an object made of vermeil gold must therefore display the maker's mark (in an oval or diamond shape depending on the origin), as well as the letter “V” or the words “Vermeil”. For any object weighing more than 30 grams, you must also see the guarantee stamp. This is the best way to be certain that you are dealing with gold vermeil and not some other type of plating. You can also have a piece of jewelry appraised by a specialist if you have any doubts about the precious metals it is composed of.

Gold vermeil is a metal used since Antiquity. Although the plating techniques were not necessarily the same as today, gold and silver alloys were indeed found for making jewelry and for making various objects.

In France, it was especially during the 17th and 18th centuries that we noted the development of gold vermeil. It was used, for example, to make royal crowns and all types of jewelry, but also tableware products.

After experiencing a less prosperous period, in particular because of toxic manufacturing methods using mercury, vermeil gold returned to the forefront in the 19th century. This is mainly due to the discovery of electrolysis to produce gold plating on solid silver. 

Very popular these days in France, gold vermeil is also widely used throughout the world, although some countries, such as the United States, are more fans of Gold Filled.

Throughout history, gold vermeil has been used for a wide variety of purposes. It was used to make dishes, cutlery, watches, jewelry, etc. It is even the material that has been favored for making Olympic medals, until today.

Nowadays, it is in the world of jewelry that we find it most often. It allows you to make all kinds of jewelry: earrings, rings, necklaces, pendants, medals, etc. This alloy can be worn and given on all occasions and vermeil jewelry makes perfect gifts to celebrate 45 years of marriage, corresponding to the “vermeil wedding”. 
It is also possible to obtain gold vermeil jewelry set with precious or semi-precious stones, with which it goes very well to bring more elegance, personality or color to the jewelry.

If you are a fan of gold-colored jewelry, know that vermeil-plated gold represents an excellent compromise between quality and affordable price. 

More affordable products than solid gold

Solid silver makes up the majority of the weight of gold vermeil jewelry. And since silver is less expensive than solid gold, vermeil jewelry is generally offered at a lower price than jewelry made entirely of gold. In a period of soaring prices for pure gold, gold vermeil therefore represents a good alternative.
However, it is necessary to compare what is comparable: depending on the total weight of the jewelry, the titration of the silver and gold used, the addition or not of precious stones, etc., some gold vermeil jewelry may be sold at high prices. 

Very good resistance over time, without oxidation

One of the problems with silver, even when it is sterling silver, is that over time it will tarnish, due to oxidation. With gold-plated jewelry, there is also the risk that the surface will tarnish, but also that the thin layer of gold will flake off and not last over time. This is why gold vermeil stands out: the gold plating of at least 5 microns guarantees good quality and longevity of the jewelry.

However, it must be recognized that purchasing gold for your jewelry remains the best option in terms of quality and resistance to the test of time. There is no risk of it oxidizing and it will not tarnish.

A material that is suitable for all skin types

Certain materials used to make jewelry can leave marks on the skin or cause allergies. This is not the case for gold vermeil jewelry, which is hypoallergenic. Whatever your skin type, even sensitive, it can accommodate a beautiful gold vermeil ring or necklace.
The same cannot be said for brass and copper, to which some people are allergic. Not to mention poor quality metal jewelry that rubs off on the skin at the slightest contact with sweat or water.

An alloy lighter than gold

Gold vermeil is also appreciated by those who like to wear imposing jewelry. It is actually less heavy than solid gold, which makes it an ideal material for making long earrings, cuff bracelets, men's watches, etc. And this by offering a brilliance and an elegance which comes as close as possible to that of gold.

Although resistant and oxidizes very little, vermeil gold deserves the greatest care. It is advisable to remove your jewelry when it risks being subjected to impacts or scratches, for example.

Worn daily, a gold vermeil ring or bracelet can also be stained. This is not a problem and you can clean it with a little soapy water. Proceed delicately, using a soft-bristled toothbrush or a cloth. Remember to rinse the jewelry well before wearing it again or storing it in its case.
And if you fear damaging it by cleaning it, entrust it to a jeweler, who will be able to restore it to its original splendor while preserving its qualities.